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AltaRoma 2016, Luigi Borbone SS 2016 Collection


The labyrinth is a metaphor for everyday life, of the continuous transformation and reinvention of the modern human being and ways of existence.

As in the Sally Potter film Orlando (based on the Virginia Wolf novel) where the male and female alternate during sleep, and also like Kore and Persephone, the woman is always a double figure in the myth of femininity - fragile and human in the quest to escape from a present that is deconsecrated. The new haute couture collection of Luigi Borbone, a name that is well known in the Italian high fashion world, is rigorous and sophisticated, constructed out of precise and splendid details.

The collection was inspired by one of the most androgynous actresses of the indie movie scene, Tilda Swinton, whose persona is both icy and iconic. One of the most notable pieces was a bandeau top of Swarovski crystals, the structure of which brought to mind topiary pruning. These natural/constructed geometries were present throughout the collection, the silhouettes flowing naturally.

It comes of no great surprise that Luigi Borbone is trained as an architect. This background serves as a powerful tool and enriches his signature style, serving in everything from design to catwalk direction to collection strategy. The SS16 collection is easy-to-wear couture, the predominant colors are pastel green, pink, a palette of blues from powder to intense. The silhouettes refer to fashion of the 1700s and the 1950s, striking silk and lace cascades studded with Swarovski crystals. The collection is fresh and modern with deep allusions to intellectual pursuits and inspirations. These are clothes true to the continuous evolution and forward movement of the New Wave in the world of Italian high fashion. 

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