Fashion designer Vittorio Camaiani presented his SS 2016 Haute Couture collection, titled ‘Contrary’, at Palazzo Ceres. The designer achieved a surrealistic look composed of deconstructed outfits that are a distant echo of classic forms, engaging in a dramatic game of role reversal; misplaced collars and cuffs, choice of form over function, the vivid irony seems to be a nod to the art of Salvador Dali.
The material seems to be apart from the body, the suspended volumes create an illusion of lightness, and the use of layered chiffon calls to mine the ‘layers’ of the psyche and leave an impression of impalpable and striking elegance.
This collection is rich with interpretive and innovative design experiments; take the classic white shirt which is reinvented, with the collar neck in place of the shirt cuffs. The muse of this collection is none other than Marina Ripa di Meana, who figures as the central model throughout. Another experiment is a tuxedo the pants of which are built like the sleeves of a dress shirt. The radical deconstruction continues into bridal wear, the neckline of the wedding dress is decorated with collars and cuffs, a macramé vision embellished with Swarovski crystals.
Predominant fabrics of this collection are chiffon, satin, organza, duchesse, linen and silk, while the color palette ranges from china blue to lemon yellow, strawberry red, leaf green, and a range of neutral colors such as cognac and classic elegant shades of white, gray and, of course, black.