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"Basic Instincts", Miu Miu 2022 Spring Summer Collection


A reaction to and reflection of reality, an economy, a freshness found in iterations of eternal, universal garments.
The Spring/Summer 2022 Miu Miu collection by Miuccia Prada is an exercise in  referencing and researching reality, using the existing to create the new.

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The  foundations are classic - trousers, sweaters, shirts, blazers, suits  and sheath dresses, absolute archetypes of everyday dress.  A new  balance of proportion is found through cutting into pieces - retaining the  believable character of  each, yet altering their relationship with the  body. Trousers are cut  into abbreviated skirts,  sweaters and shirts carved out  to reveal the body.
Edges are left  raw, elements of  construction exposed in  commemoration of  the  spontaneity of  these actions. The notion of reworking existent pieces extends to a collaboration with New  Balance - the  574 sneaker is re-proposed in  white, khaki or blue denim, with raw-cut edges.

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Embroideries reflect the  decoration of night-time attire, embellishing dresses and suits. Everyday alongside every night, the aesthetic language of day and evening dress each serve  a purpose and have a meaning within life.  
An  antidote to meaningless novelty, the  collection examines fundamental realities of  dress, the needs and wants of people from their clothes. It  is an amplification of  actuality, a focus on  reality.

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Alongside reality, fantasy: the  physical and virtual spaces of  the  Miu Miu show are punctuated with works  by  the  artist Meriem Bennani, whose body of  work  explores intimate relationships mediated through the  camera. Here,  that idea is echoed and overlapped with another interrelation, of  women and fashion.
Conceived alongside the  collection, Bennani commands control of  the  Miu Miu live  stream via a series  of filmic artistic interventions starring her  own  mother.
These fantasy sequences are mixed real-time into the  broadcast of  the  show to blur lines between virtual and real.

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Underscoring these ideas, the  interior of  the  Palais d’Iena is interrupted rather than transformed. Its  architecture remains, a runway devised by  AMO  snaking through the centre, the  audience balanced on  Eames office chairs as an echo  of  the  Palais’ continuing function as place of work.  In  the  Palais,  Bennani installs binocular, shaped screens to cut  through the  space, reforming and re-editing the physical experience of the  show and projecting her  films into real life.  As with the  clothing of the collection, these filmic cuts  create a new work, editing reality, altering perceptions.

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 © Miu Miu 

The materials used  for the set-up of Miu  Miu  Spring  Summer 2022 show  will  find  new life  after  the event  thanks to La Reserve des Arts, an  association offering  a service  of collection,  recovery  of raw materials and decoration waste  from  fashion shows, making them  available to professionals and students of the cultural sector.

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