Arriving full circle with this, her fifth season as Creative Director, Susana Clayton consolidates the new handwriting at JOSEPH for Winter 2020.
The motifs Clayton has established across her year at the brand are seen here in the contrasting ideas of masculine and feminine, by way of rigorous tailoring, variety of texture and a sophisticated neutral palette. The urban uniform of JOSEPH is defined by simplicity and ease, with modern cuts, exaggerated detail and luxurious fabrics.
Inspired by photographs of founder Joseph Ettedgui in his signature pin-striped suit, the collection takes the tones and texture of menswear as a starting point. Wide-cut masculine trousers, squareshouldered blazers and button-down shirting, play against feminine silk waist dresses and belted coats, long pleated skirts and bow tie blouses.
The neutral colours of menswear tailoring, black, grey and camel, are extended into more feminine territory, arching into lilac, peach, sienna. The restrained palette is further explored in what Clayton calls “a richness of wool textures”: boucle tweed, mohair, boiled wool, wool faille, wool satin, doublefaced cashmere, compact cashmere and extra fine merino. Other textures include granite boucle knit, irregular printed wool and head to toe snakeskin prints. Archival Argyle knits are explored and relayed into garments via graphic pattern and print. Nappa leather continues as a staple textile of the house in belted dresses, shell tops, Bermuda shorts and trousers. Seasonal outerwear is voluminous and protective in padded leather and compact cashmere.
Styled head-to-toe in layers, blanketed in oversized and fringed scarves, the cohesive look envelops and protects. Accessories come in corresponding tones and textiles. Bags play with ideas of proportion, ascending from miniature multi-pochette to the Slouch XL shoulder bag.
Footwear continues the masculine vs feminine contrasts: the thick-soled long and short Chelsea boot; the knee-high boot; the buckled Cuban loafer; and the pointy pump.