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Paris Haute Couture, Givenchy SS 2019

Playing with the avant-garde concept is always a double-edged sword. There are very few designers who can boast they are able to master something that can at any time escape their control by turning into a carambola that overwhelms all the best intentions. The Givenchy maison can fully boast this innate ability to discover the extraordinary in the ordinary and make it, through a careful design studio, perfectly wearable.

Naturally the pure divertissement that in the world of Haute Couture lets you dare in complete creative and experimental freedom compared to the more rigorous market logics of the pret à portér allows you to admire on the catwalk, in this latest spring/summer 2019 Haute Couture collection made by Givenchy, fantastic creations that would not look bad in some fantasy film. But it is just a matter of pure exceptions: everything else is pure avant-garde understood as unbridled passion for design that knows how to make new footsteps in the history of fashion, footsteps that no socially accepted sea can cancel.

So there are games of contrasts, both chromatic and material, tuxedo with clear androgynous verve, maxi bows to wear like backpacks on shoulders on sober and serious looks, naturally black angel wings, bat sleeves and balloon on minidresses sculpted on the body. A game of oxymoron that works: conventional outfits to turn into something else. The unexpected falls like a cleaver on the already seen and the already said and finally comes the New that cannot stem from the desecration of the existing. Go-go sensuality for one-shoulder gloves on femme fatale long dress and cascades of multicolored fringes that sway with vivacity, following every movement of the body of women who not only claim, but impose their presence in the world, to the sound of undulating swirling sweets that even in the distance enhance the feline gait.


Mood: Real avant-garde
Lengths: everything from minidress to evening dresses with memorable details
Volumes: soft for impact look; balloon sleeves, maxi bows and wide skirts celebrate a sculptural tailoring that is imposed in space
Colors: black, white, fuchsia, yellow, red, lilac, blue china, silver
Fabrics: pvc, leather, crêpe, satin, organza, lace, shantung

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