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Paris Haute Couture, Maison Margiela SS 2019

John Galliano confirms himself as one of the most devoted voters in art and its thousands of contaminations in this social and fluid era in which the millennials are the true protagonists of what seems to us a revolution of styles and codes while for them it is nothing but a real life and a mirror of their times. What will remain of this Haute Couture spring/summer 2018 collection that, in full Galliano style, is pure irreverence and provocation, never an end in itself, however. The message he wants to launch through his personal artisanal collection is that of a fashion that abhors rigid basic modeling, loves overlapping material, hates the diktats of an alleged seasonality, and plays with poor and noble fabrics thus disintegrating every hierarchy that is ancient law and the world of high fashion.

He wins a basic asymmetry, in outerwear and clothes, which he tries to impose on himself and conquer reason thanks to the help of colors shot everywhere like a cannon loaded with ink cartridges. Everything is pop, post grunge and in any case still punk in its desire to be revolutionary in breaking the rules. The Galliano of the good times of Dior no longer exists, we must take note of it, as well as this stubborn work of making us forget the genius of a time because what he proposes today for the maison that believed in him after the scandal that cost him dismissal looks like the result of a stylist who is starting his career now, electing the aesthetics of the rebellion to his personal manifesto.

Nothing new under the sun, only garments that shred the time they find while the memory of his distant golden age shines even more than ever in people's minds. From Alpha to Omega: two Galliano challenge each other to a duel. Only sales will decide which one will remain standing. The ghost of the past or that of a future from a hallucinogenic video clip?


Mood: Millenial hallucination
Lengths: all
Volumes: wide and comfy
Colors: all in a kaleidoscope of bright and sparkling nuances
Fabrics: wool, silk, organza, satin, feathers, mesh, cotton, velvet

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