For 240 years, architecture has been an inexhaustible source of inspiration and one of the cornerstones of the Chaumet stylistic repertoire, of which the new thematic High Jewellery collection Perspectives de Chaumet now forms part.
Palmettes and meanders, scrolls and rosettes, friezes and lace have consistently adorned the Maison’s historic creations, reflecting the various artistic evolutions of its time, celebrating the buildings of here and elsewhere.
This latest collection reinterprets this founding theme and takes its place in the heritage succession, with a resolutely contemporary and innovative approach that pays tribute to the major movements in international architecture. Chaumet spans the centuries: from the Italian Renaissance to contemporary deconstructivism, via Russian constructivism, Bauhaus and Italian futurism, each parure proffers a singular vision of these styles and the constructions from which they are composed. A radically new way of constructing is transposed into jewellery, combining purity of line, striking volumes and remarkable virtuosities.
Following the Trésors d´Ailleurs rings, unveiled in early 2020 in conjunction with the reopening of 12 Vendôme on the Maison’s 240th anniversary, today Perspectives de Chaumet extends this precious idea of architecture, in six aesthetics. Six parures, like intersecting vantage points on high jewellery, a profusion of Chaumet perspectives, a subtle balance between heritage and modernity, between classicism, dazzling creativity and continuous innovation, between grace and character, forging the implicit image of what Chaumet is today.
Sculpting light, sublimating stones, challenging balance, conceiving creations in which complexity vanishes into an impression of movement and lightness… The craftsmen-architects of the 12 Vendôme workshop have reinterpreted the Maison’s iconic virtuosities, further broadening the possibilities of jewellery, beginning with an art of construction that produces an impression of lightness.
Here, the fil couteau, a signature technique seemingly making the metal disappear in order to bring out the stones, creating a structure of airy volumes. There, masterful innovation in a visually spectacular gold mesh, which combines the assertive presence, hold and sensual suppleness of a second skin. Elsewhere, exceptional centre stones give the impression of levitating, secured between two golden segments as if suspended on the jewel.
Revisiting the tradition of transformable jewels that has distinguished the Maison since the beginning of the 19th century, Perspectives de Chaumet also offers creations inspired by evolving buildings. Whether a tiara to construct or deconstruct, a modular ring, or sliding dials to transform a watch into a bracelet, several jewels can be appropriated to provide a custom look.
And because light is a fundamental element of architecture as well as jewellery, Perspectives de Chaumet fully employs the broad range of features and finishes gold has to offer. Yellow gold with its radiant reflections animates the collection in the manner of the avant-garde creations Pierre Sterlé designed for the Maison in the 1970s. Mirror polished, openworked, engraved, hammered, shaped into sculptural curves or sharp angles, as flat surfaces or in flexible mesh – through a singular and virtuoso focus, the precious metal captures the light to better magnify the stones.
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Lastly, the gold highlights extraordinary stones, Colombian emeralds, Burmese sapphires, Australian opals flickering mesmerisingly, carefully selected for their rarity and the richness of their hue, creating precious and harmonious compositions that express the renowned Chaumet art of colour.