Georges Chakra’s Autumn-Winter 2019 Couture collection is a flamboyant homage to Hollywood’s Golden Age, embracing the sophistication of Rita Hayworth, the glamour of Lauren Bacall, Olivia de Haviland’s blondness and Audrey Hepburn’s assured femininity. So many cinema legends whose allure and attitude permeate the fifty models of this new season.
Picture an award ceremony in Los Angeles, an invitation-only soirée in Santa Monica, a property half-hidden in a canyon. From the red carpet to the most luxurious lounges of a legendary hotel, from the Chinese Theater’s pagoda to a garden hidden on the heights of Mulholland Drive, each silhouette is a story in itself. And a second skin to slip into to play the unforgettable scene.
Like a movie, each garment is multi-facetted. Superimposed materials, a play of colours, texture and brilliance, great classics revisited: Georges Chakra turns into a director and invents a heroine of stunning sophistication. Long or 7-8 dresses, jumpsuits and flowing suits, corseted jackets with structured shoulders, strapless dresses with trains, this wardrobe, like a star, is both chameleon and kaleidoscope. Brilliant as film, the mirror-effect or champagnetinted lamés meet the moiré sheen of fake shaved mink, the fizz of crystal embroideries and jet beads, the twinkling of tassels dancing with each movement. Hand-stitched sequins play it black on overalls, underlined by a velvet tone-on-tone belt, while plumes and rhodoid strips inject a graphic, and luxuriously insouciant lightness.
The materials form opulent compositions. Chantilly and guipure lace, duchess satin, pleated and embroidered tulle laid on silk crêpe, organza or gazar. The color palette vibrates to the same generous tempo inviting, in addition to immaculate whites and deep blacks, cobalt blues, anise greens, crimson, chartreuse green, champagne and soft gold tints.
A "technicolour Couture2 which also plays with all the architectural possibilities of clothing. Here a balloon sleeve, possibly embroidered like luxury armour, moulds a naked shoulder.
The rigorous asymmetries, as if sculpted by laser, clash with sensual swirls of cloth, the bourgeois delicateness of a round neck, cleavage, the refinement of a bustier with clear feathers revealing nascent breasts.
Our star also has fun with a leaf-embroidered bolero, soft and light as a cloud. Like erogenous transparency, it unveils as much as it obscures.
Alternately conquering Amazon, or floral and delicate, Georges Chakra’s diva will find clothes here to take on the most beautiful roles of her life.
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