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Paris Haute Couture SS 2018, Rani Zakhem

Fury, fervor, effervescence! For his first couture fashion show in Paris, Rani Zakhem celebrates life and joy in incandescent metaphors. Fire is the essential element of this sumptuous yet relaxed collection, dedicated to a volcanic woman. As devouring as ethereal, the sacred element comes in pyrotechnic explosions and cascades of gold, drawn by embroideries of arachnoid crystals of lava on the black of a sheath whose draped top splits into a deep "V” neckline.

Some creations seem to be sculpted in the light, like this pearl-beige silk dress,where red, orange and gold gems glow with a myriad of sequins that bring precious reflections back to the surface. Here the image of the volcano is spun to the neck, columned and entirely gilded, a recurring element of the collection and keystone of an architecture that favors ease, movement and, one would be tempted to add, the dancing flames that seem to devour the fabric barely touch the floor.

Geometry that also brings us into the disco spirit of the 1970s with many references to Halston, especially in a loose single shouldered fluid dress with a golden Mao collar, in a fanned out degradé rainbow, gold to red through yellow and bright orange. Gold, again, subtle and powdery, sculpts a feuilles d’or chiffon dress, knotted in a wrap around bustier dropping into a deep backline, a tribute to Mireille Darc elegantly quoting Guy Laroche.

 

 

Inspiration: Volcanic woman
Lenghts: kmini, midi, long
Size: skinny to enhance female body
Colors: white, black, gold, orange, yellow
Fabrics: crepe, organza, silk, satin

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