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Paul Smith’s SS23 Women’s Collection

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Paul Smith’s Ss23 Women’s Collection offers modern take on day-to-night dressing, eveningwear and tailoring
Presented in Paris  as  part of the  fashion  week  calendar,  Paul Smith’s  SS23 women’s collection continues the louche mood of the men’s 1980s-inspired runway collection, with a strong emphasis on contemporary tailoring and a versatile interpretation of eveningwear.

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Blurring the lines between day-to-night, the collection is defined by a sleek, feminine silhouette with a distinctly relaxed mood in keeping with the season. Sophisticated  tailoring, refined dresses and modern  outerwear  dominate  the  collection, with premium fabrics  including linen, boucle, jersey, suiting and satin.
Tailoring  is  at the  heart  of the  collection,  presenting  a thoroughly modern  take  on traditional suiting codes  and echoing the themes  of the menswear collection. A sleeveless vest suit, with an asymmetric  angular closure  and strong  shoulders, styled with coordinating  shorts  provides the clearest proof of this departure, meanwhile a “three-piece suit” in the form of a satin shirt, cropped  bustier and high-waisted trouser  offers a more youthful interpretation.

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Evening suits also feature  prominently, inspired by Paul’s musical icons of the 1970s and 80s. Tailored with a strong  shoulder, minimal construction and nipped  in waist, the jacket gives the impression  of an oversized,  boyfriend-inspired  silhouette without  overwhelming the  frame, ensuring a flattering fit. Available as a black and white linen tuxedo-style two-piece, a white satin tuxedo or in a placement Untitled stripe print, the louche, relaxed looks are designed to provide a statement alternative to formal dresses.

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Dresses this season deliberately  juxtapose  casual  elements with more  formal references. In particular, jersey column dresses with strategically placed rouching through the body and sleeves nod to classical Grecian gowns while also alluding to sportier styles meaning they can be dressed up or down. Presented in rich tones  of cobalt  and  burnt  orange,  the  colours  are designed to recall the  heat  of summer.  Referencing  the  season’s underlying theme,  classic  men’s shirting is reinterpreted into a lightweight asymmetric  day dress,  made  from patchwork  striped  cotton poplin as well as the aforementioned cropped bustier.

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Similarly, in outerwear,  coloured  and printed lightweight trenches offer an exaggerated shape, providing a feminine interpretation of silhouettes historically understood to be masculine. Boxy cropped  jackets – one in buttery leather and another with the placement Untitled print – offer a clean-lined take on more classic shapes.

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Prints span shirting and dresses and include the Hot Summer floral, an abstract design inspired by 1980s airbrushing techniques alongside  an airy Cloud print that summons the spirit of warm summer days.

 

© Paul Smith
Photographer: Scott Trindle

Styling: Nell Kalonji
Model: Bente
Hair: Franziska Presche
Makeup: Vassilis Theotokis

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